The multi purpose bead knives can be used for various applications. They can be used for making a center profile, end profile or used to make a half round. Some other examples would be bead board, brick molds, rounding over or beveling the edge of your stock.
Chris Marshall: While quirks and beads can be cut by hand with molding planes, a number of router bits have quirks in their profiles, too. The quirked beading bit (orange in photo, below) is one my favorites for adding a bit of shadow line and shape to the bottom edges of apron boards on small tables.
David, great job on the scratch stock!! The dremel tool seems to work really well at shaping the profile. Those quirk beads add such a nice touch to furniture, boxes, and drawer fronts. I blew out the wood blank on my first attempt with the threaded insert, too. That's tricky--you really have to get the hole drilled to correct size.
Whiteside Edge Beading bits, also known as Quirk Bead Bits, make a decorative edge for handrails or moulding. Adjust the depth of cut to either blend the bead into the edge or create a more distinct beaded edge.
Historically, beadboard was a basic, slightly decorative service finish that was common by the 1880s and remained in use well into the 1930s in rural areas. Its popular use in most buildings was as a full or partial wallcovering in kitchens, back halls, stores, and schoolrooms, but it also appeared widely on porch ceilings and eave soffits (also known as planciers) where it attained something of a featured presence. Beadboard was never designed to be a showcased material, but at its height of popularity at the turn of the century it captured center stage in summerhouses or shore cottages, where it sometimes doubled as both finish and wall material all over the building. Beadboard was also a regular component in site-made cabinetwork and joinery, where the beadboard was used to make panels in doors or cabinets.
The 8601 French Door is the updated French door. It has a quirk bead to match many traditional door styles. There are several textured and clear glass designs to fit any architectural style. The quirk bead can be reversed to create a square sticking and match your shaker door.
Applied quirk bed is made by shaping the edge of a board and then cutting the bead free.A router can bew used to shape the edge of the board, and then a tablsew or bandsaw are used to cut the bead free from the larger pieces.
If it's a standard router bit size (1/4, 3/8, 1/2\") I use the router.If it's an odd size, 1/8, 3/16/ 5/16/ 5/8, etc) I use the appropriate molding plane.If it's following a curve, I use a 1/16\" veining bit on a trammel-jigged router to cut a radiused quirk, a 1/4\" roundover for the outer radius of the bead, and hand-carve the inside radius with a gouge. Old-timey way was a \"beading stock\" (a toothed bead scratcher with a fence.) I haven't acquired a set of those yet.Are you asking about a single-sided bead or a 3/4-round bead (beaded on both views of a corner) as that is more difficult to get without a flat or pointed corner.Casey
If you are putting beading around a drawer, a cock bead is a good way to do it and was the way most fine furniture drawers were beaded in the 17th and 18th century. You can make a bead with a router on a board and then cut off the bead plus the channel. Next, route a rabbet the depth of the bead plus channel around all four sides of the drawer and glue it in. This bead is stronger than an incised bead, less likely to chip. Route your rabbet on a scrap piece of board to test for fit.
Thank you for all this help! I want to put the bead around the frame of a cabinet with inset cabinet doors and drawers. I will be purchasing the router bit for 1/4 inch or 3/8 and then rip on table saw and cut mitered edges. Thanks again!!!
The reason I asked if the bead was going around the drawer or the frame was this. If you run a incised bead around the drawer face, then the sides are end grain and are not strong and are subject to chipping out. That's why a bead inlaid into a rabbet is better. If you put a bead around the frame, then it is ok to use an incised bead because there is no end grain. Any way you do it is fine, but these are the generally accepted methods.
Shakers taught me about beads, the semicircular moldings they ran along the edges of everything from peg rails to door rails. Forbidden superfluous ornament, the Shakers used beads for their practicality, rounding an edge to hide wear. Outlined by a flat-bottomed groove called a quirk, a bead softens an edge, gives it definition and draws your eye along; it can hide the necessary gaps around drawers and doors or the joint between tongue-and-groove boards. Both utilitarian and beautiful, beads are quite easily added to your repertoire.
I cut beads, properly known as side beads, any of three ways: with a Stanley No. 66 beading tool or shopmade scratch stock, with a beading plane or with a router. The method I choose depends on which tool will work best for the least effort, how many feet of bead I need and the size of the bead. With a router or beading plane, I have fewer size options than with a beading tool or scratch stock, for which I can make any size cutter. A router and plane cut the most consistent beads, especially for straight runs, but a beading tool or shopmade scratch stock works best in difficult woods and can follow nearly any curve. Because I usually have just a few yards of bead to cut and prefer to work with hand tools, I most often use a scratch stock or plane. Both tools cut a bead with a hint of handmade irregularity and a fine quirk, more appealing to me than the consistent profiles cut by a machine.
1. Verb, gerund or present participle A belt in a bright color or with details like beading or crystals will pop against a simple dress. 2. Noun, singular or mass Tie this knot as close to the end of the beading as possible to keep the beads from sliding around on the string and revealing the cord beneath.
*In stone a quirk (or is it quark) miter is a mitered joint with the out side edge cut back 1/4 inch. When the two pieces are brought together you get an inside 1/4 inch corner. You shouldn't see any more of a joint than if it was an outside mitered corner.Anyway, I don't see how this would eliminate a sharp edge, and I don't see how it has anything to do with running the electrical. I think it may have more to do with just being a design feature. Purely decrative.
*I only brought up the electrical aspect to point out the reason for building a \"mock\" post.I realize it has nothing to do with the quirk miter. I also realize that it is a decorative feature, but I still contend that the joint in the mitered corner would be Much less evident if it were left alone and not \"quirked\"!
*Brad,Quirky but easy.A quirk is a groove. If the edge of the post is rounded over and has a groove right next to the roundover, it has a quirk bead. The effect looks like a dowel rod laying in a rabbet.Steve B
$45 Item Detail mp5640 Tiny Greenfield Quirk Ogee and Bevel Molding Plane Previous Next This plane cuts a tiny quirk ogee and bevel profile measuring 3/4in wide by 1/2in deep, one of the smallest I've seen. It's a curvy, useful profile with any number of uses. The plane remains in excellent condition with no evidence of wear. The blade is perfect, as is the boxing. An exceptional example in excellent working order. $45
$40 Item Detail mp5636 Medium Quirk Ogee and Bevel Molding Plane Previous Next This is a medium scale example of the classic quirk ogee and bevel molding. It's a very common profile to find with a wide variety of uses. This example cuts a 1 1/2in wide by 5/8in deep profile- curvy enough without becoming hard to use. The plane is in very god condition with some light wear. The blade is clean and free of pitting. This plane was made by DeForest in Birmingham, CT (now called Derby) between 1850-1860. $40
$28 Item Detail mp5625 Very Unusual Left-Handed 3/8in Side Bead Molding Plane Previous Next This plane has a partial maker's mark I can't read. It's a standard American-looking side bead but in a left-handed configuration which is very rare. It has light wear and a very clean blade. $28
$60 Item Detail mp5606 Early Matched Pair of Moseley & Son Torus Bead Molding Planes Previous Next These planes were made in London by Moseley & Son between 1819-1830. They are absolutely top quality planes with exceptional fit and finish, as expected from a Moseley plane from this era. The planes are sizes 3/4in and 7/8in. They both have removable fillets attached to the fence to allow the planes to cut the bead with or without the fillet. Both planes have cabinet pitch blades for use in difficult hardwoods. The blades are both perfectly clean. They both match perfectly with identical owner's marks. An outstanding pair of planes in top condition $60
$26 Item Detail mp5607 Outstanding Large Greenslade 1in Side Bead Molding Plane Previous Next This plane is as nice as you'll find. It's perfectly clean and has no wear. The blade is likewise perfectly clean and free of pitting. It's a top quality plane made by Greenslade in Bristol, England. It's a large architectural size bead in perfect working condition. $26
$28 Item Detail mp5621 Moseley 1/2in Slipped Side Bead Molding Plane Previous Next This is a slipped side bead- there is a small slip along the escapement side which can be removed to allow the plane to cut a deeper bead or work alongside another molding element in a built-up profile. It's not something you are likely to use, but it's the hallmark of a top quality British plane. This example in very good condition and of the best quality. It was made by Moseley in London in the mid-19th century. It has has some light wear from use but remains very sharp, ready to work. It's a useful medium size. An excellent worker of the highest quality. $28 59ce067264